one of the reasons i took this job was because i knew the ship was set to sail to croatia, a country i had never visited and had heard so many wonderful things about- from lush green forests to pristine beaches, excellent cuisine and extremely friendly people. turns out everyone was right. of all of the beautiful places we've docked in the past three months, croatia stands out as being particularly interesting and stunningly gorgeous, with a rich tradition of distinct food and drink that i am just now beginning to truly discover.
during a recent afternoon off in dubrovnik, i treated myself to a proper lunch. i found Konoba Marco Polo, a cool, tucked-away resto in the maze of the stone walls of the old city. with just a few tables inside an open-air courtyard, i was seated at a little table between a french couple and italian family. right away, i noticed the italian family sharing a huge plate of fresh crawfish and mussels that looked absolutely divine. i knew i was in the right place. this feeling was confirmed when the waiter immediately brought me local sheeps milk cheese (cheese- the key to my heart) and a shot glass of visnejvac- a local cherry brandy (spirit- the other key to my heart). after consulting the extremely charming waiter for his recommendation, i ordered the Fuzi pasta, a traditional Istrian dish. just a quick explanation of Istria- it is the largest penninsula on the adriatic sea, shared by croatia, italy, and slovenia. the region has it's own distinct culture and cuisine. Fuzi is thin pasta rolled and folded to look a bit like a bow. fresh local mushrooms and baby shrimp were mixed into the pasta with a delicious balsamic reduction and spash of truffle oil. the pasta was perfectly cooked. heaven.
in the photo you see the complimentary cherry brandy as well as a local white wine by the glass. when i asked to see the bottle for the wine, the waiter told me the bottle has no markings, as it's a local man that makes it and delivers it to the restaurant weekly. he says this is typical of dubrovnik house wines- it's cool, light and citrus-filled. perfect for hot afternoons and seafood pasta. i noticed the french couple next to me attempting to order beer with their shellfish. monsieur waiter would not allow it, recommending white wine instead. "vin and seafood is like man and woman", he insisted. so true.
split, croatia is a busy port full of young, dirty backpackers and cruise ship royalty. fortunately, not far from the port is a chill beach with cheap chairs and shady umbrellas perfect for escaping the chaos of the city. the old town is much like dubrovnik- old stone walls, impressive statues, and millions of narrow alleyways to wander through. during our last stop in split, a friend and i happened into a modest pizzeria for a quick beer before the long, hot, walk back to the ship. more friendly waiters! not only did we enjoy cold, refreshing local beers, but we were introduced to Rogacusa- a traditional Croatian brandy made from carob. again, we asked to see the bottle. bare, clear glass. "my grandfather makes it," explained the smiling young server.
unfortunately i didn't catch the name of the charming waiter, but his grandfather sure knows how to make a tasty brandy. it's strong and spicy with vanilla, fig, and caramel notes. Rakia is the name for brandy from the region- you can have carob, cherry, plum, you-name-it rakia. Mirto- the myrtle berry brandy from Sardinia- is a form of rakia as well. so happy to have discovered this new after-dinner indulgence.
that's all for now. look forward to crazy italian blends and bottles that grow on pear trees!
chau for now.
